TTll 





V 



H. C. TIFFANY 



STREET, CHICAGO. 



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w \ 



r ONTENTS. 



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Introduction, ...... 

What can be done on the "Domestic" Sewing Machine, 
Suggestions to Beginners, ----- 

General Hints on Art Needle- work, - - - 

Instructions in Outlining, ----- 

How to Wash, Silk and Crewel Embroider}', 
Instructions in Couching, - - - 

Instructions in Queen Aune Darning, 
Instructions in Applique, ----- 

Instructions in Shuttle Emliroidery, - - - - 

Fringes and Tassels for Finishing Work, 
Instructions in Embroidery with the Attachment, 
Instructions in Feather Stitch, or Kensington Embroidery, 
Finishing Treatment of Work, . - - - 

Masonic Banner, — illustrating different kinds of Embroidery, 
Designs — Adaptation and Fitness, . - - - 

How to Copy, Transfer, or Get Designs, 
Color and Harmony, ------ 

Material used for Art Needle-work, 

Queen of the Orient, — illustrating Figure Embroider}-, 

Description of Designs, ----- 

Conclusion, 



Page 





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A" COMPLETE • STAMP ING • OUTFIT 

FOR I 

"Domestic" Art Need.le=vs^ork. 

IT embraces a variety of large and practical designs, susceptible of a very wide range 
of application for "Decorative Work'" in the home. It includes the following, viz.: 
Golden Rod, Spray of Wild Roses, Fern Leaves, Daisies, Woodbine, Poppies, Forget-me- 
not, Figure (]Mau(l ]\Iuller), Scroll Design and Orange Spray. It is the first outfit 
ever prepared especially for Art Needle-work by the sewing machine. 

Can be obtained of any Dealer in the "Domestic ' Sewing Machine. 

Price, only SLoO. 
^o o o o o o o o o o o o oooo -^^ 

^ HE "DOMESTIC" MONTHLY MAGAZINE. 

A^IAGAZINE for the home, profu.sely illustrated, devoted to choice Miscellaneous 
Literature, Travels, Monthly Review of Fashions, Domestic Art, and a Ne-w 
Department devoted wholly to ART NEEDLE-WORK BYTHE SEWING MACHINE. 
This is the first and only Magazine in the world to recognize the Sewing JMachiue in 
Art Needle-work. Subscriptions can begin any time. Send direct to "Domestic" 
Sewing ]\Iaciiine Co., Neav York, enclosing amount of subscription, or subsciiibk 

TimOUGII ANY dealer IN THE "DOMESTIC" SeWING MACHINE. 

Subscription Price, $1.50 f-er year. 



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DESIGN A.— See description on page 39. 



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DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK 




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DESIGN B.— See description on page 39. 



-Introduction- 



NEEDLE-WORK undoubtedly originated with the necessity for clothing, but its 
field of application soon widened and it willingly became the servant of Fancy, 
an indispensable assistant of Pomp, and a cheerful contributor to the accompani- 
ments and surroundings of Religion. Moses, in the book of Exodus, describes how 
the curtains of the Tabernacle were embroidered and the priestly garments wrought 
under the direction of Aholiab the chief embroiderer. In ancient times the special 
favor or approval of Kings and potentates was manifested by the bestowal of finely 
wrought apparel, and the mythological Gods propitiated by the giving of priestly 
vestments and gorgeously made temple decorations. The Grecians ascribed the 
invention of Art Needle- work to the Goddess Athene, and the Romans recognized 
it as a worthy attribute of Minerva. 

After the Christian Era it continued to hold a prominent place in ecclesiastical 
adornment, attaining the highest degree of perfection between the fourteenth and 
eighteenth centuries. Its field kept constantly widening, and besides ecclesias- 
tical uses, it was largely employed in the decoration of hangings, furniture, costumes, 
equipages, etc. During a large part of the eighteenth and the early part of the 
nineteenth centuries there was a marked declension in its production. Its revival 
in England really dates back only to 1872, when influences were set in operation 



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"DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK 



which resulted in the establishment of the celebrated Eoyal School of Art Needle- 
work, at South Kensington, England. The Centennial Exposition exerted a 
wonderful influence in this country in creating a wide spread interest in its produc- 
tion. Societies have since been organized for the furtherance of its interests, schools 
established for instruction in its production, and throughout our country everywhere 
prevails great interest in this attractive and refining field of home work. A new and 
potential factor in its production has recently come into the field; not a heretofore 
unknown one, but rather the adaptation of a well known and almost universally 
employed assistant in home work, to the production of all kinds of Art Needle- work. 
This new factor is the family sewing macliine. Whilst all machines can, to some 
extent be employed in this work, yet to the "Domestic" belongs the proud 
distinction of being the only one that fully meets all the practical requirements for 
the production of this most exacting class of needle-work. The recognition of this 
fact by an intelligent and discriminating public has caused a demand for some means 
of instruction for its production, and in response thereto the following pages have 
been prepared. They are not intended to be exhaustive, but rather suggestive. 
It is hoped, however, that they may prove a real help and an additional stimulant 
in this most fascinating field of home work. It must always be borne in mind that 
the standard of excellence is the skilled product of the hand, and that the work of 
the machine to be satisfactory, must come fully up to this requirement. No degree 
of success should be satisfactory until this is attained. 

True art is ennobling, and in our homes it exerts its subtle and refining powers 
upon all who dwell or enter therein; therefore, let all efforts to beautify or adorn them 
be in accord with the truth, beauty and power of the best designs most forcibly 
executed. 




DESIGN C.— See description on page 39. 



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DOMESTIC'' ART NEEDLEWORK 




DESIGN D.— See description on page 39. 



What can be done on the "Domestic * 
Sewing Machine. 

THE whole line of Art Needle-work on 
eveiy kind of texture with every 
kind of material. 

The following are the j)rincipal 
classes of work, but each is susceptible 
of a great variety of combinations and 
applications: Outline Etching, Couch- 
ing, Couching Applique, Queen Anne 
Darning, Braiding, Braiding Applique, 
all kinds of Silk, Arrasene, Gold Thread, 
Tinsel and Chenille Embroidery, Keii- 
sington Embroidery and Solid Etching. 
Prominent amongst the work pro- 
duced might be named doylies, tidies, 
various kinds of scarfs, table, stand and 
piano covers, screens of all kinds, panels, bannerets, all kinds of window and 
door draperies, tapestry hangings, etc., etc. Also most elaborate and beautiful 
landscape, flower or figure etchings, imitations of Oriental and other foreign work, 
all of which are simply marvelous, both in effect and execution. 

What are the requisites in a sewing machine to fill the requirements for the 
satisfactory production of this class of work? The answer can be summed up in 
three essential points, viz. : Simplicity, range of work and practicability. Does the 
"Domestic" fill these requirements? The first, simplicity, must be evidenced by its 
adaptation to the work with the fewest possible changes, and the ease with which 
they are made, so that any person can readily understand and manage successfully. 
The "Domestic" produces all of the varieties of work enumerated above with only 
one extra attachment in addition to those furnished with the machine. Very few 
changes are required to adapt it to the production of any of them, which are as easily 
understood and made as the changing from a plain seam to the making of a hem. 
The second requirement, range of work, is answered by the above list of the various 
classes of Art Needle-Avork. The last, practicahility, is answered beyond all question 
by the work itself, and the ease with which inexperienced persons take uj) and 
execute it. The "Domestic" Embroidery Aitacliment is a complete art machine in 
itself, covering almost the entire field of embroidery. It uses every kind of material 
employed in embroidery. The Vibrator for Vibratixg the Presser-Foot, a 
distinctively "Domestic" device, is one of the most practical features of the machine 
in the execution of Art Needle-work, because it enables the operator to turn the 
work in any direction without having to stop and raise the presser-foot. Others may 
claim equal degrees of excellence, but the careful and intelligent observer will 
readily see the difference. 



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"DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK 



Suggestions to Beginners. 

FIRST of all the beginner must be familiar with the machine, understand the 
tensions, the effect of different length stitches, and know what changes might be 
made in order to handle properly various kinds of material. The use of the vibrating 
presser-foot should be thoroughly understood. To that end Avould suggest practice 
■on a piece of muslin or other material until perfectly familiar Avith its adjustment 
and application in handling the work. In short, the machine, to be used success- 
fully, must be controlled and directed by an intelligent judgment. Its capabilities 
are wonderful when thus managed. 

In selecting the first design for working on the machine let it be one that would 
be simple and easy for hand-work. Do not attempt too elaborate or extensive work 
at the outset. Do not be discouraged if the degree of success expected is not at first 
attained. Eemember that "There is no excellence without great labor;" that 
experience is only the result of continued effort; and that shill is only a familiar 
knowledge coupled with dexterity in practical application. Avail yourself of all the 
information possible in reference to Art Needle- work; study carefully the printed 
instructions for the various kinds of work given on the following pages; have confidence 
in your own ability, persevere in your efforts, and success will crown your labors. 

Do not be satisfied with your attainments until your work is equal or superior to 
the skilled product of the hand. In some kinds of work the machine will far excel 
the hand, both in effect and durability, at a great saving of labor and material. 

It should always he home in mind that the machine is only the mea7is of executing 
the ideas of the operator, and that perfection of execution depends upon the degree 
of completeness and accuracy of these ideas; therefore, do not expect to be able at 
once to execute perfectly that of which you have no distinct or definite idea. A little 
practice will make you perfectly familiar with the mechanical details involved, but the 
artistic requirements are the same as when executing by the hand. 

Some persons are said to 
have a natural taste or genius 
for Art Needle-work, but it has 
been truly said that genius is 
only another name for toil; 
earnest, faithful and persistent 
effort which always brings suc- 
cess. The skillful and rapid 
producer of Art Needle-work 
to-day was the blundering and 
hesitating tyro of the past. By 
the aid of the sewing machine 
new possibilities are within the 
reach of many, who for the want 
of time never could have made 
by the hand scarcely any pro- 
gress towards advanced attain- 
DESiGN E.-see description on page 39. ments In Art Needle- work. 




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DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



General Hints on Art Needle-work. 

THE question of material, designs and color is usually a perplexing one, but 
especially so to persons with a limited knowledge and experience in decorative 
work. What kind of material will be best adapted to the intended use? What 
colors "will answer the proper harmony? What kind of a design will look well and 
at the same time be easily and quickly executed? Verily, these are primary questions 
and require the exercising of personal judgment. 
General suggestions may aid, but cannot decide. 
There are always certain general laws, but their 
application is contingent upon so many local surround- 
ings that the individual must determine as to fitness. 
There is now the most perfect liberty in the choice of 
materials. Anything can be used that would be 
suitable for the place, or purpose for which the article 
is intended. Colors should always harmonize with 
surrounding colors. 

The prevailing colors to-day are subdued, and are 
capable of the closest harmony. Avoid a gaudy 
display of contrasting colors. Study artistic effects. 
Nearly all lovers of art work possess a natural eye for 
colors, which will in a great measure guide them. 
Bold and showy designs are suitable only for large 
pieces of work, such as portieres, curtains, etc., 
and should always as far as possible harmonize with 
intended use. The fundamental law governing all 
art work should never be lost sight of, viz. : '' Fitness 
and absolute truth are essential to all real art" 
Mistakes will be made, but each mistake is an experi- 
ence which could not be obtained in any other way. 
Experience begets confidence and skill. It is surpris- 
ing how rapidly ideas develop and multiply when con- 
centrated in any given direction. 

In nothing is this truer than in Art Needle- work 
on the sewing machine, because of the rapidity and 
ease of execution. Cultivate an appreciation of art- 
qualities by a careful study of the principles and 
application of decorative designs. True beauty in art 
work, requires knowledge, and this can only be obtained 
by diligent labor, but the end is well worth the effort. 

It is an invariable truth that knowledge alone can enable the formation of accurate 
judgment respecting beauty or want of beauty of an object, and the person possessing 
the greater knowledge is best able to correctly judge of its ornamental qualities. We 
wish therefore to impress upon all, the importance of a general knowledge of the 
principles of art, not only on the ground of personal enjoyment, but with a view to 
the general advancement of the refining and ennobling influences of art in the home. 




DESIGN F. 

See description on page 39. 



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DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



Instructions and Directions for Art Needle-work on the "Domestic" 

Sewing Machine. 



Outlining or Outline Etching. 

OUTLINE means the line by which a figure is defined, and in its application to 
Art Needle-work by means of the sewing machine is the outlining of designs by 
a line of stitching or embroidery. In details, it is the simplest 
kind of Art Needle- work, but its beauty depends upon grace and 
fidelity to form. This is particularly true of figure subjects. 
Outlining is one of the oldest kinds of embroidery, and probably 
attained the highest perfection during the sixteenth, seventeenth and 
eighteenth centuries. When more than mere contour is desired it 
is often called Outline Etching, and when worked solid in colors 
or with lights and shades it is called Solid Etching. The various 
names given to the different kinds of Needle-work, such as Out- 
lining, Couching, Queen Anne Darning, etc., simply indicate the 
different kinds of embroidery and the various methods of applying 
the material. Outlining, because of its simplicity, ease of execu- 
tion, effectiveness and general adaptation, is more generally used 
than any other class of embroidery. A great variety of effects can 
be produced by variation and combination of colors. The thought- 
ful operator will find in this class of work a wide field for artistic 
effect in arrangement and harmony. 

Directions. 

Cut No. 1 . 

Outlining is usually done with knitting, sewing and etching silk, gold 
thread, kismet, filoselle, zephyr and crewel. The first three can be used either from 
the shuttle, or as the upper thread. The last three are always used from the shuttle, 
and their use is called Couching, which will be fully described under that head. 

Outlining with kismet or tinsel can be done same as braiding, by using an extra 
reducer for reducing the size of the hole in braider plate. For instructions see 
directions in regular instruction book for learning the "Domestic" Sewing Machine, 
under the head of the under-braider. It will not work with the ordinary braider 
plate or reducer, but requires a special one. It can also be applied with the regular 
forked presser-foot. Wind the kismet cord on a spool, and place over spool pin 
resting on the spool of upper thread. Insert the shuttle screw driver, or any other 
metallic pin,into the oil hole on top of face plate; then pass the end of the kismet 
around this, bringing it forward and down the center of face plate, back into the 
fork of the presser-foot and under it far enough to hold in place. 

For some kinds of outlining with kismet, the "Domestic" Embroidery Attach- 
ment is preferable. See directions for using the embroidery attachment. Gold 
thread or cord is best applied with the embroidery attachment same as kismet. 




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DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK 



When outlining by means of a row of stitching with a large or coarse thread, it 
is always preferable to use it from the shuttle, because it avoids changing the 
needle. Regulate the shuttle tension to suit the size of thread and use the same 
color of silk or cotton for the upper thread, which may be smaller than the shuttle 
thread, particularly if a couching effect is desired. If however, the effect of a 
beautiful and delicate line of perfect stitching is desired, the outlining material 
should be fine and always used as the upper thread. See that the tensions are 
nicely adjusted, so as to make a perfect stitch, which 
may be either long or short, according to the pleasure 
of the operator. As a rule, coarse thread always 
requires a longer stitch than small or fine thread, and 
the stitch should be varied in length according to size 
of thread. When the thread is small it will ahvai/s 
work nicely as the upper thread, and is preferable to 
using from the shuttle. Rule — Use large thread for 
bold designs or for the production of striking effects, 
and small sized thread for small desigtis or more subdued 
and delicate effects. When used from the shuttle, the 
design must always be stamped on the lorong side of 
the goods. 

Use the Vibrator so that the work can be turned 
without having to stop and lift the presser-foot. 

For fabrics which require repeated washing,outlin- 
ing with silk or crewel is preferable, because the washing 
only serves to harmonize and blend the tints used. 

How to Wash Silk or Crewel Work to Prevent 
Color from Running. 




Cut No 



Pour a gallon of boiling water over one pound of bran, 
and allow it to stand for twenty-four hours, occasionally 
stirring it; strain and use the bran- water lukewarm. This makes an excellent wash 
for setting colors of embroidery on wash goods. Squeeze the fabric gently, but do 
not rub, or wring; hang up to dry in the house in a warm room; iron on flannel with 
the back of the work up. Don't expose to sunlight when damp; never use soda, 
washing powder or fluid ])reparations. Sometimes it is better not to iron the work. 
In that case when almost dry, stretch on a board with drawing pins or Avhite tacks, 
and allow it to remain until thoroughly dry. 



Application. 

In its simpler applications. Outlining is used for decorating doyleys, tray cloths, 
bread napkins, tea cloths, tidies, scarfs for side boards and dressing cases, splashes, shoe 
bags, umbrella and cane holders, etc. The more difficult applications, but none the less 
practical, are for screen panels, door and window curtains, bed covers, bannerets, etc. 



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DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK 



Description of Cuts, etc. 

Cut No. 1. — Represents an umbrella and cane case. It is made of linen duck; 
length, thirty-four inches; width at top of the back, fourteen inches, bottom five 
inches. The back should extend above the pockets about eight inches. The pocket 
piece is twenty-six inches long, twelve inches wide at the top, and tapered so as to 
allow a little fullness at the bottom. It is outlined with knitting silk and is bound 
with scarlet dress braid, also a strip of braid extends down the middle of the pocket 
piece making it into two pockets as shown. Light leather might be used for binding. 

Cut No. 2. — Is a banneret, or small panel worked in outline with black sewing 
silk on crushed strawberry colored sateen, thirteen inches long and ten inches wide. 
It is mounted on heavy paste or binder's board with black velvet strips at top and 
bottom about two inches wide. It is suspended by a ribbon same color of the 
sateen, one and one-half inches wide. This cut illustrates a wide class of most 
beautiful and effective outline work. 



A very ornamental and attractive strip for decorating a light colored curtain 
can be made by working in outline a suitable design on satin of any desired color. 
Light peacock blue, with a design outlined in gold and rose colored saddlers' silk, 
worked in colors so as to produce a most pleasing contrast,makes a beautiful border 
for a grenadine or scrym curtain. Lace insertion should be used on each side of 
the strip, and the edge finished with broad lace. 

Designs on brocades can often be very effectively outlined with gold or silver 
thread, or a pretty contrasting color of silk. Plush takes outline work in gold with 
effect. A very handsome portiere can be made of plush with a suitable design out- 
lined with gold tinsel, cord, or Japanese gold thread. A band of plush may be used 
quite as effectually, and after outlining,sewed on a porti're of sateen or other suitable 
material. Care however must be exercised in selecting harmonious colors. 

Felt takes outlining with good effect, especially couching outline done in crewel, 
zephyr or filoselle. A variegated effect that is most pleasing can be produced by 
using two colors of crewel wound together: in coming off of the bobbin sometimes one 
will be on top, sometimes the other, and sometimes both colors will show; thus 
producing a most singular variegation. 

Outline leaves worked in shaded zephyr are very attractive and suitable for use 
on felt. Mythological and other figures worked in outline on linen with crewel or 
silk are in great favor for screen panels. India silks make most beautiful draperies 
when decorated with outline designs in filoselle. For small panels, white velveteen 
with outlined flowers and a back-ground of Queen Anne Darning in a color that 
will harmonize nicely, is very effective and easily executed. 

When outlining is used in connection with Queen Anne Darning,conventional or 
arabesque designs are preferable. After having learned to execute with the Ken- 
sington stitch (see page 27), it will be found most desirable for many kinds of out- 
line work. The operator's preference however, will have to guide in the choice of 
the means of execution; no specific rules can be laid down, as one operator may prefer 
one method and another some other, but each in the end attaining the same result. 
The desired effect has much to do with deciding upon the method of outlining, and 
a little practice will enable the making of an intelligent decision in each case. 

lO 



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DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK 



Instructions and Directions Continued. 



Couching. 

THIS name is properly applied to all kinds of embroidery in which the threads of 
crewel, silk or zephyr are laid on the surface and stitched on by threads coming 
from the back of the material, crossing the couching thread. This effect is produced 
most beautifully, rapidly and perfectly by the ''Domestic" Sewing Machine. It is 
quite an old kind of Art Needlework, having been used largely centuries ago in South- 
western Europe. Some forms of it played an important part in the production of the 
famous ecclesiastical embroideries of the fifteenth, sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. 
It is also found in some of the old Turkish embroideries. The following illustration 
(Cut No. 3), Avill give a correct idea of its appearance and proper length of stitch 
for zephyr or filoselle. 

Directions5. 

Couching is done with coarse silk, 
filoselle, zephyr or crewel. They are 
always used from the shuttle with the 
upper thread of a size such as is used 
for ordinary work. The shuttle tension 
should be a little looser than for ordi- 
nary work, and the upper tension 
adjusted to it so that the under, or 
couching thread will lie on the surface 
instead of being inter-locked in the 
middle of the fabric. When zephyr or 
Cut No. 3. other equally heavy material is used, 

thread the shuttle as shown in Cut No. 4, which is as follows: 
Instead of passing the thread under the 

spring according to the regular instructions 

for threading the shuttle, pass it upward 

through the hole in the spring nearest to you, 

then backward over the spring, down through 

the hole farthest from you and under the 

curved guard of the spring. If this makes 

too much tension, draw the thread out of 

the second hole and pass it down through the 

long slot under the spring guard. 

For many kinds of work a very pretty effect is produced by using a color for the 

upper thread that will contrast nicely with the color of the couching thread. Rule — 
Whenever a large or coarse thread is used in the shuttle, the throat-plate must have 

a hole large enough to allow the shuttle thread to be draton up through freely. Tlierefore, 

for this class of ivorh always use the throat-plate tvith the largest size hole. Failure 

to observe this rule will invariably cause trouble. If the couching material is very 

heavy it may require a special throat-plate, for which apply to any dealer in 





Cut No. 4-. 



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DOMESTIC^ ART NEEDLEWORK 




Cut No. 5. 



'^Domestic" Sewing 
Machines. The presser- 
foot should always 
vibrate just high enough 
to clear the goods when 
the needle is down, so as 
to allow perfect freedom 
in turning the goods to 
follow the design. 

Application. 

Couching is especially 
adapted to the outlining 
of large or bold designs, 
and for various kinds of 
applique; also for use in 
connection with Queen 
Anne Darning. It may 
be used solid where flat 
effects without shading 
are desired. By crossing 
the lines of couching 
most beautiful effects in 
net work can be pro- 
duced. It is used for 
decorating portieres, 
lambrequins, piano 
covers, table and stand 
covers, scarfs of all kinds, 
bed covers, etc. Its use 
in connection with Queen 
Anne Darning will be 
treated under that head. 



Description of Cuits, etc. 

Cut No. 3. — Shows the appearance of a couching stitch in zephyr or filoselle, 
and is about the right length of stitch for all heavy material. The judgment of the 
operator after a little experience, will guide in deciding upon the proper length of 
stitch for the various kinds of material. Avoid using too short stitch. 

Cut No. 4. — Shows the shuttle threaded Avith zephyr. Observe closely the 
directions regarding variation from the manner of threading as there shown. 

Cut No. 5. — Is a most beautiful illustration of the practical application of 
couching with zephyr. This portiere is made of Ada canvas, and is especially suit- 
able for a dining room. It is worked in couched outline with zephyr and crewel. 
The colors used are shaded red, olive and brown, deep yellow and three shades of blue 



12 



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"DOMESTIC^'ART NEEDLEWORK 



zephyr, (the first three, each shading to yellow,) and three shades of apricot 
crewel. The latter not being as heavy as zephyr is worked double. The border is 
made as follows: the scroll of shaded brown, the leaves and flowers of all the other 
colors except the deep yellows. The disks through the center are made of all the 
colors arranged with reference to harmony, the outside ring of each being of the deep 
yellow. The tassels on the sides and bottom are made of all the colors and material 
used in couching, the cord of each being made of orange colored embroidery silk. 
The design is stamped on the wrong side. 



AVe have seen a great variety of very elegant work in couching, and the thought- 
ful operator will find a wide field for its application in home ornamentation. 
Imitations of Oriental work can be executed in this stitch, which for beauty and 
effectiveness far excel the product of the hand. 

A Turkish table cover of black cloth was executed by an inexperienced operator, by 
devoting a portion of each day for about three 
weeks; the same design executed by hand, devoting 
about the same amount of time per day, required 
over one year for completion, besides being 
inferior, both in quality of work and effective- 
ness, to that done by the machine. The material 
used was coarse embroidery silk in Turkish colors. 

A most beautiful table scarf of light olive 
colored sateen, decorated with a conventionalized 
rose design executed in filoselle couching on each 
end, has attracted much attention, because of 
its effectiveness, ease of execution and exempli- 
fication of the practical adaptation of the 
machine to the production of this class of work. 

A portiere of light olive felt decorated with 
interlocked rings and squares strewn over it, 
executed in different shades of orange and olive 
colored zephyr and crewel couching, presents an 
illustration of the revival of an old style of 
ornamentation, which is easily and readily 
executed on the machine. A variety of materials 
in various harmonizing colors can be used in 
this way. Seek to produce subdued and pleasing 
effects, by means of close harmony, rather than 
gaudy and showy contrasts. This will require 
more care and thought at the outset, but will give 
familiarity with the hues and tints, and a better 
knowledge of the laws of harmony. Remember, 
that laws and suggestions are only general assist- 
ants, and that personal judgment must always 
decide upon the details of any piece of work. 




DESIGN C— See description on page 39. 



13 



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DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



Instructions and Directions Continued. 

Queen Anne Darning. 

THIS is a kind of work that comes down to us from the seventeenth century, the 
days of Queen Anne. It consists of parallel lines of darning with coarse silk 
of a contrasting color with the fabric on which used, worked so as to leave the design 
in outline; the darning covering all the ground, giving the appearance or effect of a 
tinted back-ground. It can be used very effectively for tinting the back-ground in 
connection with certain kinds of applique. It is also used for working designs, 
leaving the ground the color of the fabric. This class of work is very effective and is 
produced on the sewing machine by rows of stitching which in effect is superior to 
the work of the hand. 

Directions. 

Use filoselle, filo floss, or sewing silk. The first two kinds of material will have 
to be wound on spools. The stitch should be longer than for ordinary work and the 
tensions regulated so as to leave the goods perfectly smooth and show a perfect stitch. 
The rows of stitching should be spaced the same as in hand- work. When tinting a 
back-ground care must be taken not to stitch beyond the design, which is to appear 
in outline, so that the contour may be perfect. If working a design by filling it, 
commence so that the lines of darning will conform to the natural lines of the object 
represented by the design, and have each line end so that a line of darning will 
cover all these separate endings, and make a perfect and continuous outline. For 

illustration, take a leaf, commence with 
the center or middle stem and work to the 
"-^ge, back and forth, until the entire leaf 
covered with lines of stitching; then 
1 ich around the leaf, following the outline 
curately, up through the center of the 
1 if lengthwise and back again on the same 
1 le of stitches, which will complete it. 
1 he edge and stem will be heavier than other 
1 trts of the leaf, as they should be. For 
large or bold designs the effect can be 
greatly enhanced by outlining the design 
in the Couching stitch. When Couching 
is thus used the darning should always be 
done first. 



Application. 

Queen Anne Darning is susceptible of 
a wide range of application and is a fine 
field for the display of artistic effects in 
combination and variation of colors. It 
can be used on various kinds of scarfs. 




¥i^r¥¥r¥T 



Cut No. 6. 



14 



yj^^y. 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



tidies, table and stand covers, curtains, bed covers, etc. It works well in designs of 
flowers with design and ground same color, varying only in tone, a kind of orna- 
mentation called monochrome; or the fabric may be of one color and the darning in 
its complimentary color. Kule — Avoid striking and sharp contrasts of color, study 
close harmony and subdued effect by means of tones of either the same or contrasting 
colors. 

Description of Cu.t, etc. 

Cut No. 6. — Is a tidy of Bolting cloth. The ornamentation is an orange spray 
showing leaves, flowers ^nd fruit. It is worked in darning with flloselle. The leaves 
green, flowers white, and fruit orange color. The effect is most delicately pleasing. 
It is finished on each edge with a hem and at the bottom the two rows of tassels are 
made of orange colored silk. 

India silk, satins, unbleached muslin and many other kinds of material are used 
for this kind of decoration. 




DESIGN H.— See description on page 39. 



The above design is an admirable one for this class of work. The most beautiful 
effects can be produced by the use of this class of designs, and they are most heartily 
commended to the consideration and practice of all operators. 

The process of needle-work tinting by means of darning, was introduced in this 
country by the New York Society of Decorative Art, It makes a beautiful back- 
ground for designs cut out of serge or cretonne, especially when they are tastefully 
appliqued in such a manner as to give the effect of blending the whole into one 
solid piece of work. 

For bed covers or hangings where a certain tint is required, which cannot be 
obtained in the desired fabric, the use of darning not only overcomes the difficulty, 
but adds to the richness and beauty of the work. Unbleached muslin can be used 
in this way in connection with applique ornamentation, with surprising effect and at 
a very small cost for material. In order to become familiar with the effect of darning 
would suggest experimenting with different kinds of material on different fabrics and 
in connection with different kinds of work, 

15 



iJ^^. 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



Instructions and Directions Continued. 



Applique. 



THE order adopted in the presentation of the various kinds of work in this Hand 
Book is with a view to the natural and easy progress of the operator. Starting 
witli the simplest form of Art Needle-work on the machine (outlining by stitching), the 
next step is another form of the same class of work with a wider and more varied 
field of application. Then follows Queen Anne Darning, another arrangement 
of stitching with an entirely different effect, which opens up a field for the most 
beautiful combinations and closest harmony of colors, with the greatest variety of 
effects. Following in this line of systematic progress we now take up an entirely 
different kind of work, a most interesting class of art productions. Applique by the 

hand is a somewhat tedious and difficult 
process, involving great care in details 
of mechanical execution, as Avell as 
artistic knowledge and ability in the 
selection and arrangement of materials 
and colors. Notwithstanding this fact, 
however, it has always held an import- 
ant place in Art Needle-work. The 
"opus consutum" or "cut work" of past 
centuries occupies a prominent place 
in the South Kensington Museum. 
Many of the old ecclesiastical adornments 
were largely made up of applique designs 
skillfully and artistically blended into 
the general design by means of embroid- 
ery. The robes of royalty were delicately 
wrought in applique flowers and leaves, and gorgeous hangings with most intricate 
designs in applique, contributed in no small degi'ee to courtly splendor. By the 
"Domestic" Sewing Machine the execution of this kind of work is made most simple 
and easy. Couching and Braiding Applique are the simplest and easiest forms. 
There is also Embroidery Applique, which will be treated under its proper head in 
that class of art work. There are two kinds of Applique, viz. : Onlaid and Inlaid. 
The former is the kind most generally used. 

Directions. 

For Onlaid Applique prepare the goods to be used as follows; have the design 
stamped on the wrong side of the ground material, then baste the material to be 
appliqued securely to the right side of the ground material, being careful to see that 
it is the full size of the design. If the work is to be executed in couching, prepare 
the machine according to the directions for couching, and then stitch carefully, 
following every part of the design. After stitching cut away the superfluous part 
of the material appliqued, cutting closely to the line of couching, being careful 
however, not to cut so close as to injure any of the stitches. If the work is to 




Cut No. 7. 



16 



:^^_^ 



'DOMESTIC'' ART NEEDLE WORK 



be executed in braiding, 
prepare the machine accord- 
ing to the directions for the 
under-braider in the regular 
book of instructions for 
learning the "Domestic" 
Sewing Machine. Prepare 
the material same as for 
couching applique and braid 
every part of the design by 
carefully following the 
stamped or traced pattern on 
the wrong side of the ground 
material. Cut away the 
superfluous part of the 
applique material close up to 
the braid. Use sharp and 
finely ^yointed scissors. 
Always adjust the vibrator 
so as to allow the most 
perfect freedom in turning 
the work without having to 
stop and raise the presser- 
foot with the hand. The 
"Domestic" U7ider - braider 
is the simplest, easiest opera- 
ted and most perfect braiding 
device in use. For Inlaid 
Applique stamp or trace the 
design on the wrong side of 
the material to be appliqued 
which must be securely 
basted on the back of the 

ground material. Braid or couch same as for onlaid work, and when done cut 
away the ground so as to show the inlaid design. The edges can be left as cut away 
or they may be finished with a line of gold or silk embroidery. It improves nearly 
all ai)plique work to finish the edges with embroidery. 

Application. 

The range of aj)plication is large and varied. It is used for ornamenting 
portieres, table, stand and piano covers, scarfs of various kinds, panels, etc. Variety 
and effectiveness of application, together with ease of execution, make it one of 
the most desirable kinds of Art Needle-work for the amateur operator. With suit- 
able designs any person, who can run a machine on the ordinary lines of practical work, 
can produce most beautiful decorations, either by braiding or couching applique. 




Cut No. s. 
or couch same as for onlaid work, 



17 






DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK 



Description of Cu-ts, etc. 

Cut No. 7. — Is an easel scarf made of dark orange colored India silk. The 
ornamentation is a Nottingham lace design, appliqued with silk, in the Kensington 
stitch. The lace was first securely basted to the silk; then the figures were appliqued 
with sewing silk same color as the ground, after which the superfluous parts of 
the lace were cut away and the edge finished with a line of Japanese gold thread put 
on with the embroidery attachment. The open portion of the figures were next 
worked in silk embroidery with the Kensington stitch, as shown by the shaded lines 
and dots in the cut. One end in a pinkish terra cotta colored silk and the other in 
electric blue. It is finished with a hem about one inch wide all around, and the 
ends have tassels of orange colored silk. For instructions in Kensington Applique, 
see Kensington Embroidery, page 27. 

Cut No. 8. — Is a portiere of crimson colored sateen, decorated with onlaid 
applique of olive plush put on with gold braid. The design is Oriental, easily exe- 
cuted and very effective. Kismet or tinsel cord might be used instead of the gold 
braid, or gold colored silk braid would be equally suitable. This is an especially 
pleasing design for use on a portiere. 



Very pretty draperies can be made of peacock blue serge with bands of turquoise 
blue, ornamented with a conventional arrangement of oranges and leaves of yellow 
and green serge appliqued in couching with crewel. Vein the leaves with a light 
shade of green crewel. The use of satin for the bands would be very effective. Other 
materials and combinations of color might be used according to requirements of 
surroundings and desired effect. We have seen a most lovely sofa cushion 
of green sateen, with leaves of Sumac in all their Autumnal colors, appliqued 
in each corner with gold tinsel, and veined with gold thread. The leaves were 
made of plush. It was lined with garnet satin and edged with a cord of garnet 
and gold. It would simplify the arrangement of colors, without impairing the 
beauty of the design, by using a dark moss green plush instead of the Autumnal tints. 

A beautiful style of ornamentation for applique comes to us from Venice and 
Southwestern Europe, and is usually called Venetian ' 'cinque cento." The designs 
consist of scroll patterns and conventionalized forms of leaves and fiowers. A scarf, 
with a ground of old gold, through the center of which is appliqued with silk braid, 
a bold scroll design in crimson velvet, with a subordinate design of leaves and flowers 
in a pinkish red colored silk, arranged so as to form a border on each side, and 
a center for the largest parts of the crimson velvet scroll. It is easily made, and a 
good specimen of this kind of applique. A most beautiful cushion cover can be 
made in this style of decoration. Take royal purple velvet, and applique, a border 
with scroll designs in lemon yellow silk. Have the center design in rich ivory yellow 
silk. Arrange the border and center so that there can be interspersed conventional 
leaves and flowers in various shades of green silk from deep to lighter. Applique 
with suitable colored silk braid. Finish the corners with tassels of variegated silk 
and gold. This will be a little more difficult of execution, but the result will amply 
repay the effort. From these illustrations and suggestions the practical importance 
and adaptation of applique must be apparent to all. 

18 



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"DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



Instructions and Directions Continued. 

Shuttle Embroidery. 

WE now come to a class of work in which the designs are usually worked solid, or 
filled so as to fully cover the ground material. This naturally involves more 
artistic ability and experience, because the Avorking of nearly all designs in solid 
embroidery requires more or less shading. The same laws governing color and shade 
in the production of Art Needle-work by hand apply to its execution on the sewing 
machine, and without some knowledge of their requirements, no one need expect 
to attain a very satisfactory degree of success. The shuttle is adapted to the pro- 
duction of some kinds of embroidery quite successfully, but where fine shading is 
required, we would advise the employment of other means. The great difficulty in 
using the shuttle is the necessity of having to execute without being able to see the 
work; hence, only such designs as require a solid color, or very little shading, are 
really practical. More intricate ^^^r-^^^ j ^ , ^ 



designs can be executed, but 
the process is tedious, and really 
impractical for general use. 
There are those who recom- 
mend the shuttle for all kinds 
of embroidery, but a little 
thought will convince any 
person of its impracticability 
for executing fine shading. 

Directions. 

The shuttle of the"Domestic" 
Sewing Machine will use, for 
embroidery, all kinds of sewing, 
filling and embroidery silks, 
crewel, arrasene, chenille and 
zephyr. Change the shuttle 
tension to suit the material. 
When using arrasene, chenille 
or zephyr, thread the shuttle 
according to instructions for 
large sized materials in couch- 
ing. See page 11. For the 
upper thread use the same color 
as in the shuttle, and adjust 
the tension so as to make a 
perfect stitch. Lengthen the 
stitch and have the rows of 
stitching close together so as 
to make the embroidery solid. 




Cut No. 9. 



19 



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DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK 



The design must be stamped, or traced on the wrong side of the material. Use 
the vibrator so as to enable the turning of the work without lifting the presser-foot 
with the hand. 

Application. 

Shuttle embroidery can be used on portieres, table covers, scarfs, tidies, etc., and 
is one of the most durable kinds of embroidery, but its execution is always rather 
difficult and apt to be unsatisfactory to a majority of operators. It requires con- 
siderable experience to make solid embroidery in colors with the shuttle, but patience 
and perseverence will enable the attainment of a high degree of excellence. The 
same amount of effort, applied to some other kind of work on the machine, would 
usually be more satisfactory. 

Description of Cut. 

Cut No. 9. — Is a portiere of olive sateen with a band of dark cardinal plush, 
on which is worked, in shuttle embroidery, a flowering Cactus vine. The leaves are 
made of different shades of olive colored silk, and the flowers of different shades of 
yellow silk. The effect is most pleasing. Instead of the olive, cardinal colored 
sateen might be used with good effect. 



Fringes and Tassels for Finishing Needle-work. 

The operator should always bear in mind, that fringes or tassels, for decorative 
needle-work, should be used as a finish, and not as an ornament. They should be 
in perfect accord with the material and the work, so as to appear as an essential part, 
rather than an optional appendage. A fringe made of felt, cut in fine strips, is a 
very simple and effective finish, where it can be appropriately used. When several 
colors are employed in the work, corresponding colors of felt may be combined. For 
many kinds of work on wash goods, an appropriate finish, is a fringe made by 
ravelling the edge and afterwards knotting. Crewel may be made into a fringe for 
finishing various kinds of work, as follows; wind carefully and evenly around blotting 
paper about one inch wide, then with the machine, stitch across one edge, two, 
three, or more times, so as to make a heading; cut the other edge, tear out the 
blotting paper, and comb into fluffness by using a coarse dressing-comb. Combine 
colors to suit the work. Tassels may be made of silk, crewel or zephyr by winding 
around card-board about one inch wide; cut at one side, tie through the center, with 
the ends of the cord by which the tassel is attached, also just below the top with a 
separate piece of the material used in making the tassel. They may be left full and 
plain, or combed out to be fluffy. 

Woven fringes of sewing silk, crewel or chenille are always good. Pompons, or 
silk balls can often be used very effectively. Bangles, or rings make an appropriate 
fringe for some kinds of work. The sumptuous fringes of j)ure silk found on old 
needle-work are rarely seen now. 

20 



.1^^^ 



"DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



Instructions and Directions Continued. 

Embroidery with the Attachment. 

THUS far, all of the various classes of art needle- work have been produced by simply 
using different kinds of material, without any attachment; but a point has now 
been reached Avhere the successful handling of materials in producing the most artistic 
effects in embroidery, require that the work should be constantly under the eye 
of the operator, so that each step in the progress of execution may be accurately 
noted and controlled. 

To meet this requirement we have the "Domestic" Embroidering Attachment, a 
most simple, perfect, complete and reliable device, for using all kinds of embroidery 
material, Avithout any changes of adjustment, or arrangement. It is "par excellence" 
amongst the devices of this class. Thoroughly practical, durable, and easy to operate. 

Directions for Puttin^e: on, Regulatino^, 

Threading and Using the "Domestic" 

Embroiderer. 

For an illustration of this Embroiderer, 
see cut on the _ ^ 

inside of back 
cover. 

Before putting 
on the embroider- 
ing attachment, 
remove the reg- 
ular presser foot, 
and 2)ut on the 
foot that goes 
with the attach- 
ment. Fasten the 
embroiderer to 
the machine by 
means of the 
screw, behind the 
lower bearing of 
the jsresser-bar. 
Before tighten- 
ing the screw, see 
that the fork of 
the driving arm 
is on the needle- 
nut. Then lower 
the needle, so as 
to cross the Cut No. lO. 




21 



»^^ 



»s/fSi^^^ 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 




embroiderer fingers, and see that 
the needle goes down midway 
between the two holes in the end 
of the fingers. If it does not, 
move the attachment, so as to 
bring the needle into that position, 
and then tighten the screw, so as 
to secure the attachment firmly. 
The spindles for carrying the 
spools of material should next be 
put in place, and then the attach- 
ment is ready for use. For 
arrasene, chenille, kismet cord 
and various kinds of heavy 
material, only one finger should 
be used, whilst for silk and other 
kinds of light material, both 
fingers may be employed, accord- 
ing to the effect desired. When 
only one finger is used, the outside 
one may be removed. To thread 
the attachment, place the spool 
of embroidery material on the 

spindle, pass the material along Cut No. i i . 

the embroiderer arm through the guides on the side, and backward through the hole 
in the end of the finger, drawing it far enough through, so that the end can be placed 
under the presser-foot. If both arms are to be used, thread the other one same as 
the first. The shuttle thread should be drawn up through the throat-plate, so as to 
leave the ends free in starting. Its work can be varied by changing the length of 
the stitch, and the number, color and combinations of material used. The machine 
should be threaded same as for ordinary sewing. The upper thread should always 
be as near the color of the embroidery material used as possible, unless a varied 
effect is desired. Adjust the vibrator so that the presser-foot will clear the work and 
leave it perfectly free when turning. There is no waste of material in doing this 
kind of work on the machine. In fact it only takes about half as much as in hand 
work, besides executing much more rapidly and perfectly. When starting, have the 
ends just long enough to pass backward for the presser-foot to hold in place, and 
when changing shades, or colors, cut the embroidery material close to the needle, 
thread as in starting, stitch over the ends, and the place where changes are made 
can not be seen. 

Application. 

The range of application of embroidery with the attachment is very great, 
because of the variety of materials employed, and the scope of its adaptation. 
Starting with the simpler designs, easy of execution, it progresses onward to the 
most elaborate. From the combination of a few primary, or secondary colors, and 

22 



iJ^i,.: 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



their comphmentaries in the simpler forms, it embraces almost every hue and tint 
m the execution of more elaborate designs. Whilst any person with an ordinary eye 
for color, may execute, successfully and satisfactorially, many designs, the highest 
success will be achieved by those who have some knowledge of the laws of color and 
harmony. 

This statement is not made to discourage, but rather to encourage, by showing 
a field worthy of the best efforts. By means of the sewing machine, the highest attain- 
ments are now possible to many, who, for want of time, never could have made 
much progress by the hand. Portieres, lambrequins, table, stand and piano 
covers, scarfs of all kinds, panels, bannerets, etc., all come within the scope of 
application. Also, panels for dresses and all kinds of embroidered ornamentations 
used in various kinds of garments. Chenille embroidery, arrasene embroidery. 




J^k^ 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 




various kinds of tinsel and kis- 
met embroider}', all kinds of 
silk embroidery, crewel embroi- 
dery, etc. In short, every kind 
of material, on any kind of 
texture, used in hand work. 
For the production of applique 
designs in mosaic work, it is 
admirable, and for finishing 
the edges of applique work, 
after cutting away of the super- 
fluous parts, it is exquisite. 

Description of Cuts. 

Cut No. 11.— Is a double 
panel screen. Tlie frame is 
made of cherry and the work is 
done on black satin. On one 

side is the beautiful golden rod. Cut No. 1 3. 

growing up through some old rails, with a blue bird flying towards it, from one 
corner. On the other panel is a branch of Sumac in all its brilliant Autumnal colors. 
They are worked with arrasene in the natural colors of the flowers, leaves and rails. 
Tlie bird is worked in blue tablet silk. 

Cut N"o. 12.— Represents a most elegant bed spread, forty by forty-four inches. 
Shams to accompany it are twenty-two inches square, both measurements being 
inside of, and not including, the Spanish lace with which they are finished. The 
set from which the engraving was made is of bolting cloth. In each corner is 
worked a bunch of thistles. The leaves and ball part of the flower are worked with 
arrasene. The leaves are veined and the balls dotted with embroidery silk. Tlie 
fringe-like part of the flower is worked with two or three shades of lavender colored 
embroidery silk. The flowers strewn over the spread are made as follows; the roses 
and buds are ribbon work applique, and the leaves are arrasene, veined with small 
chenille; the daisies are worked in different shades of yellow arrasene, with brown 
silk centers, made to stand out by winding three or four times around a small piece 
of blotting paper, about one-quarter of an inch wide, shaped so as to fit into center of 
flower. After stitching through the center, the silk is cut on each side, and the 
blotting paper torn out. The word ' 'Domestic" is worked in different shades of 
No. 2 brown chenille. The edges of the spread are finished with two rows of Spanish 
lace, and the shams with one, sewed on fine net lining. The Spread and Shams 
are lined with cream-colored silesia. This is a most elegant design, and is 
appropriate for use on a variety of kinds of material. 

Cut No. 13. — Is a peacock blue plush mirror frame, twenty-three inches square. 
The decorations are two sprays of roses. The flowers are rose colored plush applique, 
and the leaves are arrasene, veined with chenille. The mirror is nine and one-half 
inches square. A very effective af)plication of embroidery ornamentation. 

24 



.^L^ 



DOMESTIC'' ART NEEDLEWORK 



Cut No. 14. — Represents a pair of folding door portieres, made of wine colored 
sateen, Avith dado of plush about one shade darker. The ornamentation is a water 
scene executed in gold, silver and copper-colored tinsel, with cat-tails in brown arrasene. 
The effect is gorgeous. This design is very effective when executed in colored tinsel, 
using blue for the flags, green and gold for the leaves, etc. This is one of the 
best, most pleasing, and easily executed designs for tinsel work we have ever seen. 

Cut No. 15. — Shows a portiere of cardinal-colored satin sheeting, with dado and 
frieze of plush two shades darker. The lattice work is made of iridescent kismet, 
with spaces on dado of two inches, and on frieze of one and one-half inches. The 
grape vine on dado is worked as follows; the leaves and vine with green and 
brown arrasene, the veining on the leaves Avith small chenille, and the grapes with 
tinsel. To make the clusters of grapes stand out, each grape is worked on a separate 




r.ii^x^- 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 




j)iece of cloth and filled with 
cotton, and then appliqued 
to the plush, so as to make the 
clusters. It is made up with an 
interlining of canton flannel, and 
a lining of old gold colored silesia. 
This hanging illustrates a com- 
bination of materials in Art Needle- 
work, easy of execution, but very 
ornamental in effect. 

Cut No. 20 on page 31, is a 
Japanese jDanel of black satin 
worked with Japanese gold thread. 

Cut No. 23 on page 38, is a 
banneret, with monogram worked 
in various colors of silk embroidery, 
on black satin, trimmed with plush 
bands. 



In the application of chenille, 
arrasene, silk, crewel and kismet 
embroidery, care must be exer- 
cised, so that, there may be proper 
adaptation, both to intended use, 
and desired effect. Combinations 
Cut No. 1 5. of these materials, in the same 

piece of work, often contribute to the attainment of most i^leasing results. 
With a clear idea, of the purpose to be attained, the operator will be able 
to execute with astonishing rapidity, as compared with the work of the hand. 
Many kinds of embroidery material, are very difficult of application by the hand, but 
with the "Domestic" Embroiderer Attachment, this impediment is fully overcome, 
and the. quality of the work produced by it, in every respect equal, if not superior, 
to hand work. No production of the sewing machine in art work, should be 
satisfactory, unless fully uj) to the requisite standard of acceptable hand composition. 
To attain this, of course, requires the same knowledge requisite for hand work; but 
when it is coupled with the sewing machine, instead of the hand, the power of 
production is wonderfully increased. We emphasize this thought, because it should 
be fully understood, that Art Needle-work by the sewing machine, is the same as 
Art Needle-work by the hand, except, that the machine multiplies the power of 
production, and greatly lessens the labor. The consideration of embroidery, Avith 
the various materials used with the embroiderer attachment, brings this question, of 
Macliine versus Hand in Art Needle-work, prominently before the reader. They are 
in perfect accord, and in the use of the machine, the hand will find a most reliable 
assistant in every kind of needle art-work. 



26 



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'DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK 




Instructions and Directions Continued. 

Feather Stitch, or Kensington Embroidery. 

THE kind of embroidery usually denominated Kensington, is properly called 
'•Opus Plumarium/'or Feather Stitch; and Kensington is really a misnomer. It 
is an old kind of embroidery, revived largely through the influence of the Eoyal Art 
School, at South Kensington, England; and for that reason is often called Kensing- 
ton. ^ The modern name is properly, "Feather Stitch" embroidery. The stitches 
vary in length, and are so taken in and between each other as to blend perfectly the 
colors used. It is the chief, or most important stitch, for the production of the 
most elegant embroidery, and the attainment of the finest 
effects in color. The operator will find, in this class of art 
embroidery, an unlimited field, both in respect to artistic 
skill, and range of application. Shading scarcely inferior 
to the brush, can be done by this stitch. Its production 
by the ^'Domestic" Sewing Machine is so perfectly like the 
Avork of the hand, that it can truly be called its crowning 
work, in the line of Art Needle-work productions. The 

first attempt in the production of this stitch by the sewing Kensington Foot. 
machine, was the making of figures, landscapes, etc., by the use of black and white 
silk, with a short, irregular stitch, producing an effect something like etching. 
From this resemblance it was called etching, and the work of the machine in this 
stitch is generally known by that name; but this so called etching is only a variety 
of the Feather or Kensington stitch. 

Instruictlons. 

Prepare the machine by dropping 
the feed bar, which is done by 
removing the feed lifting rod. The 
latter is held in position by a screw, 
where it is attached to the shuttle 
lever. When the screw is loosened, 
the rod will drop down, and it can 
then be removed from the feed bar. 
This is necessary, because this kind 
of embroidery requires various length 
of stitches and frequent changes of 
direction, and could not be controled 
or directed, if manipulated by the 
feed of the machine. For this reason 
the feed is dropped out of the way, 
and the work always moved by the 
hands. 

Eemove the presser foot and use 
Cut No. 1 6. instead the Kensington foot, which 

27 




rjjj^^ 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



is an extra foot, not furnished with machine, but can be obtained of any dealer in 
the ' 'Domestic" Sewing Machine. In order to secure perfect freedom in manipu- 
lating the work, raise the vibrator just high enough, to prevent the foot from jyrcssing 
on the goods at any time. After having the design traced, or stamped on the right 
side of the goods, stretch tightly over embroidery hoops, and it is ready for work. 
Rest the arms on the table of the machine, so as to get an easy and steady movement, 
taking hold of the hoops, so that the thumbs will rest on the outside, with the 
forefinger of each hand thrown over on the inside, as shown in Cut No. 16, which 
explains the position of the hands, etc. For complete explanation, and detailed 
instructions, see description of Cut No. 16. 

It requires a little practice to get an easy, even movement of the hands, but 
when once acquired is the most fascinating kind of Art Needle-work. 

For this kind of work, use filo-floss, 
and filling, or sewing silk. Beginners 
should first practice with cotton thread 
until some degree of ease and freedom 
of movement is attained; also, the 
nature and effect of the stitch fully 
understood. Then start on a simple 
design, requiring but little tinting of 
colors. The ground should be fully 
covered, which is accomplished by Avork- 
ing over until the stitches fill in every 
part of the design, according to the 
effect desired. 

Application. 

The acme of Art Needle-work has now 
been reached, and a wide realm of appli- 
cation lies at the operator's command. 
Alone, or in combination with other 
kinds of Art Needle- work, the subjects 
for its application, are almost innumer- 
able. For working flowers on a tinted 
back ground of Queen Anne darning, 
it is most effective. For various kinds of Applique work it is preferable to all other 
means. It is very desirable m connection with many kinds of arrasene embroidery 
with the embroidery attachment. It is especially suitable for embroidering flowers, 
landscapes, animals, birds, dresses and other garments, etc. It can be used on 
portieres, lambrequins, all kinds of scarfs, piano, table and stand covers, panels, 
bannerets, decorative raquets and tambourines, bangles, etc. Also, for the produc- 
tion of tapestries of most marvelous beauty and effect. 

Description of Cu-ts, etc. 

Cut No. 16. — Illustrates the manner of preparing, holding, and manipulating 
the work in feather stitch, or Kensington embroidery. The material is first stretched 




Cut No. 1 7. 



28 



JL^^ 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



as tightly as possible over hoops. For very fine goods, it is sometimes necessary to 
wrap the smaller, or inside hoop with muslin, so as to make the outer hoop fit tight 
enough to hold the goods to be embroidered, firmly. The hoops are grasped so 
that the thumbs are on the outside, towards each other; the forefingers are thrown over 
on the inside, with the other fingers on the outside. The arms rest on the machine 
table, so as to get an easy, even and steady movement. Begin the work by stitching 
along the outline, so to form a close even edge, with the stitches converging irreg- 
ularly toward the center, or in the direction necessary to the proper form, when 
finished. Then, Avith longer, or shorter stitches, fill in the design from the outer 
edge, being careful that each stitch conforms to the direction necessary to secure 
a natural form of the flower, or other objects, when finished. When completed, the 
stitches should be indistinguishable, one from the other, giving to the whole surface, 
a smooth, rich and even effect. 

Cut No. 17. — Is an apron made 
of cardinal plush, with a broad 
piece of light blue satin, at the 
bottom. The embroidery is a 
spray of apple blossoms, in natural 
colors, worked in the Kensington 
stitch. It is trimmed wit h Oriental 
lace, and loops and ends, of card- 
inal and light blue satin ribbon. 

Cut No. 18. — Shows a grena- 
dine curtain, with a strip of olive- 
colored satin, with flowers, leaves 
and birds, worked in the Kensing- 
ton stitch, with silk in the nat- 
ural colors of the objects repre- 
sented. The side and bottom is 
finished with insertion, edged with 
antique lace. A'unique, and most 
elegant hanging. 

Cut No. 19.— Shows a Royal 
Bengal Tiger, and is a fine illustra- 
tion of the work of the ''Domestic" 
Sewing Machine in animal and 
figure embroidery. This piece of 
work is executed in silk. The 
animal in the sepia shades, and 
the flagging and stone, in stone 
colors. It is a masterpiece of 
work in this line. 



The feather, or Kensington 
stitch, is said to be the basis of 




Cut No. 1 8. 



29 



IJ^^^'- 



"DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLE WORK 



all modern embroidery. There are several stitches in hand work, very similar, differing 
only in their application, for the purpose of producing certain effects. Thus, the 
"featlier stitch'" is used for flowers. The "stem stitch" is used for stalks and stems 
of flowers, and leaves. There is, of course, a difference between the appearance 
of the two stitches, but the difference, really consists in the application, with a view 
to the production of different effects, corresponding to the difference in objects 
represented. Then, there is the "satin stitch," which is another adaptation of 
embroidery by threads laid on the surface. This latter, is a very old kind of 
embroidery, specimens of it having come to us from nearly all nations and periods. 
Its use now, is principally, for small masses of embroidery, where a rich effect is 
desired. It is employed quite extensively, in some kinds of Japanese and Chinese 
embroidery. It is produced by passing the thread from one outline of the design 
to the other, so as to lie along-side of each other, in mechanical regularity. Both, 
the "stem stitch" and "satin stitch," are executed on the machine, by the same 
movement employed in manipulating the feather stitch. 

The production of embroidery, by this free hand movement, widens the range of 
Art Needle-work by the machine, and enables the production of a great variety of 
stitches, which can not, in their appearance, or effect, be distinguished from the 
work of the liand, Roman and Venetian embroideries come under the range of 
work executed by this movement. 




^j^^y. 



"DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



Finishing Treatment of Work. 

VERY much depends upon the finishing 
of a piece of Art Needle-work, in order 
to get the full effect of the design as executed. 
Many finely wrought embroideries are passed 
as failures, and examples of poor conception 
and design, because of incomplete, or 
improper finishing. There should always be 
perfect smoothness of surface and regularity 
of design, especially in all hangings. To 
attain this, careful stretching is always neces- 
sary. A good way to stretch many kinds of 
embroidery, is by wetting a clean cloth in 
clear cold water, wring out and place 
smoothly on a clean board, or table. Place 
the work on it face upwards and stretch 
tightly until perfectly smooth, using tacks, or 
draAving pins to hold in position. Care must 
be taken not to use tacks that will rust. 
When the work is on linen, to be finished 
with fringe, it should not be fringed until 
after it has been stretched. For silk, velvet, 
sateen, or plush material, a little flour paste, 
with alum in it, is often desirable for the back 
of the embroidery. Spread a clean blanket, 
or other suitable material on a table or board. 
Place the work with the right side down upon 
it, and stretch until perfectly smooth, secur- 
ing it evenly in place with tacks. Then 
apply the paste carefully on the back of the 
embroidery and leave until thoroughly dry. 
Do not allow the paste to touch the material, 

except on the back of the embroidery. Do Cut No. 20. 

not use an iron on embroidery, if it can be avoided, as it flattens the work and is apt 
to injure colors. However, when a piece of work is badly drawn, or puckered, it 
may be necessary to lay a damp cloth over the back of the embroidery, and press 
through it with a warm iron. 

Look carefully after all the little details of finishing. Remember ahoays, that 
whatever is worth doing, should be well done. 

Avoid undue haste, if you would escape the subsequent annoyance of unnecessary 
imperfection in finishing treatment. Let every piece of work be as carefully finished, 
however simple the subject, as though of vital importance to your future welfare. 
Cultivate the habit of thoughtful painstaking; and with the completion of every 
effort thus carefully executed, there will be an apparent increase of power. 

31 




J^z^ 



DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK 




(Copyrighted.) 

Masonic Banner. 

THE above cut shows a most beautifully wrought banner, representing all of 
Masonry, in a new and striking arrangement. The Bible is made of white satin, 
appliqued to a square of blue silk. Square and Compass and letter G, of tinsel. 
The Keystone is of white satin, appliqued to a square of scarlet silk, letters and 
lines of gold thread. The Passion Cross is of red silk; the Banner suspended from 
it of black silk, with the Maltese Cross and Motto outlined m gold thread. The Crown 



32 



.J^^k^ 



DOMESTIC^ ART NEEDLEWORK 



'^^ 



is of gold tinsel and thread, with colored jeAvels. The Sword blades are of silver 
tinsel, hilts of gold. The double Eagles are wrought in gold thread on royal puri^le 
silk. The Sword and Crescent are on a square of white silk, and are made as follows; 
sword-hilt of gold, blade of silver, and the Crescent, in ivory colored silk embroidery' 
suspended by gold clasp and links. The Banner is made of old gold colored satin,' 
with the squares in each corner and cross in center, appliqued with gold thread in 
saw stitch. 



Design-Adaptation and Fitness. 

THE question of design, in all art work, is one of primary importance, and its 
requirements are appreciated, in proportion to the range of personal knowledge, 
and practical art ability. 

Design in art work really means, ''a plan of any work of art, drawn out in the 
mind," or in other words, it is a per- 
sonal conception of figures and styles, 
in their proper relation to adaptation 
and fitness. The question, therefore, 
becomes a personal one, with every 
person engaged in any form of art work. 
Art Needle-work is no exception, and 
the requirements of fitness and adapta- 
tion are really more exacting, in this 
connection, than in some others, because 
the work of the needle usually supple- 
ments, or forms a part of an existing 
style, or line of decoration. Art Needle 
work designs are of three classes. 
Inventive, Conventional and Natural. 
Invejitive designs are imaginary pro- 
ductions, foreign to nature, formed by 
the use of lines and angles used in 
drawing. They are sometimes called 
geometric designs. Conventional designs 
are the connecting links between the 
Inventive and Natural. A plant, a leaf 
or a flower is taken and combined into 
a design, by means of the geometrical 
lines and curves, prominent in its 
natural formation, adapting it to a 
special or particular use, so as to appear 
most pleasingly beautiful, but entirely 
different from its natural growth or 
order; hence, Conventional designs are 
special adaptations of natural objects to 




DESIGN I.— See description on page 4(X 



33 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



particular uses in decoration, for which they are not naturally fitted. Natural 
designs are reproductions from natural objects, often modified in detail by omitting 
the minuteness of nature's finish, but true to form and general effect. 

It is not expected that all operators in Art Needle- work on the ''Domestic" 
Sewing Machine, will be able to sketch, or draw their own designs, but a knowledge 
of the classes of designs, and their adaptation, will greatly aid in selecting and 
determining, as to adaptation and fitness. Geometrical or Inventive designs are 
only adapted to large pieces of work, and are little used in Art Needle-work. 
However, most beautiful effects can be produced by them when properly used. 

Conventional designs have the widest range of adaptation and fitness, and enables 
the accomplishment of the most beautiful effects in needle- work. Natural designs, 
next to Conventional, are best adapted to the production of Art Needle-work, but 
their use requires care and judgment in determining fitness, because the question of 
color comes into prominence with its imperative demands for truthfulness, whenever 
nature is taken as the model. After having decided upon a design, never attempt 
its execution until careful study has given complete knowledge of its make-up. 
Time, thus taken in preliminary study, will be more than made up, by rapidity of 
execution. The question of color stands so intimately related to design, that it often 
exerts a controlling influence in determining adaptation and fitness. The color of 
wall decorations, style and color of carpets, rugs and furniture, must necessarily 
weigh heavily when deciding upon a design for a hanging, a table 
or stand cover, etc. 

In cities and large towns, there are always facilities for securing 
good designs, but as far as possible, learn to depend upon yourself. 
It has been truly said, that "knowledge is power," and in nothing 
is this truer, than in the selection of designs for Art Needle-work, 
and their execution by the sewing machine. The ability to select, 
with due reference to the requirements of adaptation and fitness, 
as well as skill to properly execute, are the result of the power of ■< 
knowledge, controlled and directed by an active and discriminating 
judgment. The thoughtful, observing operator, will never be at 
a loss for designs, or how to execute them. 

Flowers are always favorite designs, for 
embroidery. Daisies, daffodils, lilies, apple- 
blossoms, wild roses, cherry, dogwood, pansies, 
carnations, leaves and grasses, etc., make 
delightful subjects for study. Never group 
in a stiff bouquet, but aim to secure a natural 
and easy arrangement. Do not crowd leaves 
and flowers 

aboutthe Op 

stems. Give 
plenty of room 
for detach- 
ment from the ^^^''^ 

back ground. DESIGN J.-See description on page 40. 




34 



^iy»ui .u3[jj(.4iiri j;(.jj> ^^ 



How to Copy, Transfer, or Get Designs. 

QNE of the simplest and easiest methods is by the use of transfer paver which 
secure the pattern upon the material, and pounce over the hoLTfth orS; , J 

in the '-Domestic" Sewing Machine. °'"'"™'* ''' ""^ ^^"^^^^ 

Color and Harmony. 

more aXll," Xr 'ol^d 1^^"^^ ^t '^""r"^' "^ ^"^ *° "' '^^-''^-^ 

orange. Bed and blue compounded, make violet or purnle "SlI ' T° T" 
compounded, make green. Red and j^ellow compound^l.Tl!: orange '"' ^^"""' 
By the admixture of two secondary colors, a tertiary color is formed- th„» 

yelS^nd Wuelrtiarir '" '^"'""'^'^'^' ^^""''^"^ '" *'^^ ""^ --<>. «<». 
Black, white and gold are neutral colors. Gold will act as vellow >.nf • 



35 



J^k^^ 



DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK 



In a compound color, the missing primary is called its complimentary; or, the 
complimentary of a primary is the secondary or compound color composed of the 
other two primaries : thus, red is the complimentary of green, because green is 
composed of the other two primaries. Blue and yellow, or green, may be the compli- 
mentary of red, for the same reason. The other colors stand related in the same 
way, as will be seen by the following diagram of colors. The same numerals on 
opposite sides, show complimentary colors. Thus, 1 at the bottom indicates red; 
at the top 1 represents green, meaning that red and green are complimentary colors. 
The other numerals in like manner show corresponding complimentaries. 

T 

This harmony of col- 
ors by complimentaries, 
is called the harmony 
of contrast, and the 
tones of contrasting 
colors should be nearly 
of equal intensity. 
There is another class 
of harmonies, produced 
by different tones of 
the same color, called a 
single scale of color, or 
scales more or less ap- 
proximating. This is 
called harmony of an- 
alogous colors. Most 
pleasing effects may be 
produced by it, but 
where brilliancy 
and splendor are de- 
sired, the harmony of 
contrast by means of 
the complimentary colors must be resorted to. Would advise all operators in Art 
Needle-work to avail themselves of the information contained in some standard 
manual of colors. The following laws respecting contrast, harmony and effect of 
color, are deduced from standard authorities on this subject, and a knowledge of 
them is of primal importance in the execution of all kinds of Art Needle- work 
in colors. When different colors are employed their effect will be in accordance 
with the laws, of contrast, and when juxtaposed, exert an effect the one upon 
the other, according to their natural relations. Thus, a light color brought in 
contact with a dark color, causes the light color to appear lighter than it is, and the 
dark color, darker. Another effect of juxtaposition of certain colors is to change the 
hue, or tone. Thus, green and red placed side by side, cause each to appear of 
deeper tone than it naturally is. Black, with a spot of blue on it. or wlien placed 
beside blue, becomes rusty looking, whilst the blue shows but little alteration. Tlie 
reason for this is, that the eye cannot view any one color without another being 




36 



J^^k^ 



DOMESTIC ART NEEDLE WORK 



created. When red is viewed the eye creates green, and when green is viewed in like 
manner red is produced, which creation, in each case, is cast upon tvhaiever is 
nearest. When bkie is viewed the eye creates orange, which falling on the black 
makes it appear rusty. When yellow is looked upon, purple is created The eye 
demands the presence of the three primary colors, either in their purity or in 

combination, and if not present will create the defi- 
ciency. Agreeable contrast produces harmony, and 
perfect harmony improves each of the contrasting colors. 
However, there are subtleties of harmony, which 
are difficult to understand, and the rarest harmonies 
frequently lie on the verge of discord. The color of the 
I ground has to be carefully considered. Thus, with a 
[gold-colored ground, a color should be outlined with a 
darker shade of its own; and a gold color on a colored 
ground should be outlined in black. When a color is on 
a ground in direct harmony with it, a lighter tint of its 
own color must be used for outlining it. When the color 
and ground are in two tints of the same color, if the 
ornament is darker than the ground, it will require out- 
lining with a still darker tint; but if the ornament is 
lighter than the ground, it will not require any outline. 

The effect of color in Art JSTeedle-work can not be over- 
estimated, and the object of color should never be lost 
sight of. Form can exist without color, but its devel- 
opement depends upon color, as an important adjunct. 
Mere outline may be good, but it is not satisfying; 
mere light and shade may be pleasing, but they do not 
gratify. Form seems to demand color; and it is only 
well proportioned and graceful forms, in harmoniously arranged colors, that afford 
the highest degree of satisfaction. The object of color, then, is: "First, to lend 
new charms to objects; and second, to assist in the separation of objects and parts 
of objects, and thus give assistance to form." 




Cut No. 22. 




DESIGN K.— See description on page 40. 
37 



^i^^y- 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



Material Used for Art Needle-work. 




T' 



Cut No. 23. 



*HE following list of textiles, for use in Art 
Needle- work, is given for the benefit of those 
who may not have facilities for familiarizing them- 
selves with the various kinds of materials adapted 
thereto. It is not a complete enumeration of every- 
thing that is, or may be used, but embraces the 
principal kinds of materials. 

Felting is used very generally for table covers, 
mantel valances, screen panels, portieres, etc. It is 
seventy-two inches wide and can be had in almost 
any shade. Costs from 11.00 to $1.50 per yard. 

Haw silk momie cloth is an excellent material 
for draperies. It is fifty inches wide and costs 
about $3.50 per yard. 

Linen momie is used for draperies, panel 

screens, etc. It is fifty inches wide and costs $1.50 

per yard, Cotton momie costs $1.10. 

Turcoman cloth is a beautiful fabric, like woven chenille, and is principally 

used for curtams, or portieres. It usually comes in olive, old gold, Indian red and 

maroon colors, fifty-four inches wide, at from 12.00 to 15.00 per yard. When all 

silk, it is called silh Shclali, and costs from 18.00 to $10.00 per yard. 

Surah satin is much used in Art Needle-work. It hangs in rich, soft folds, has 
a smooth surface and is very desirable for hangings and portieres. It is silk faced 
and wool back. The best colors are old gold, maroon, cream and olive. Price 
about $2.60 per yard, fifty inches wide. 

Turkish satin, similar to the surah and very desirable, is silk faced and cotton 
back, fifty inches wide, and costs $2.00 per yard. 

Sateen is a similar kind of material in appearance, and is much used. It comes 
in about the same colors, as Turkish and Surah satin. It is fifty inches wide, and 
costs about $1.50 per yard. 

Flax velours is a new fabric, somewhat like Turcoman in appearance. It is 
made double and single faced, and comes in the leading artistic colors, fifty inches 
wide, costing $3.50 per yard; suitable for portieres, table covers, etc. 

Linen velours is similar to flax velours, but not so expensive. Very desirable. 
$2.50 per yard. 

Plushes for draperies, chair and table covers, etc., are the handsomest and 
most brilliant materials, but expensive. They come in all the leading colors, 
twenty-four inches wide, and cost from $1.85 to $4.50 per yard; fifty inches wide 
costs from $7.50 to $10.00 per yard. 

Woolen 2ilush can be used for heavy draperies. It comes twenty-four inches 
wide, and costs from $2.00 to $3.00 per yatd. 

38 



Jx<^^- 



DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK 



F«^^ 



Among washing fabrics used are crash, bamboo cloth, linen sheeting, oat-meal 
cloth, butcher's linen, scrijm, cheese cloth, muslin, and India mull. These last 
are familiar to all and can be obtained almost anywhere. 

Bolting cloth is used for very delicate work and is an excellent foundation for 
embroidered curtains, bed covers, tambourine tops, etc. It costs from 12.00 to 
14.00 per yard. There is no defined rules governing the selection of materials, but 
perfect liberty is accorded; provided, the material is always suitable for the 
intended use. 

Oueen of the Orient. 

ON" the last page of cover (outside), will be found a masterpiece of Art Needle- 
work, which is entitled, the Queen of the Orient. It was made on the 
'•Domestic" 8ewing Machine. In detail, the execution is as follows; the flesh tints 
are in solid stitching, with flesh colored sewing silk; the dress is cardinal-colored 
arrasene embroidery; the girdle, blue satin arrasene embroidery; the cap, silk 
embroidery, worked in Roman stripes, with tablet silk; the jewels and metallic 
ornaments are worked in natural colors, with tinsel embroidery; the fan, silk 
embroidery, the handle ebony colored, and the feathers gold colored; the vase is 
made of different colored tinsel embroidery, so interwrought as to produce a bronze 
effect; the stone is wrought with wool arrasene embroidery of a stone color; and the 
leaves and grasses are made of arrasene and chenille embroidery, in natural colors. 
The embroidery is all done with the "Domestic" Embroiderer Attachment. 



Description of Designs. 

DESIGN" A, PAGE 2. — For pin cushion or mat, suitable for braiding, couching 
outline, and braiding or couching applique. 

Design B, page 3. — For use anywhere such an ornament would be suitable. 
Work in outline, or solid silk embroidery. 

Design C, page 4. — This is a conventional design of rare beauty, and can be 
worked in couching outline, or in combination with Queen Anne darning and 
applique. It is suitable for a portiere. 

Design D, page 5. — Daisies. Can be used on table scarf, sofa pillow, fancy 
bags, etc. Work in silk, arrasene or tinsel embroidery. 

Design E, page 6. — Wild roses. For use on portiere, screen panel, scarf, 
table cover, sofa pillow, etc. This design works up most beautifully in silk, Avith 
the feather or Kensington stitch; also, in arrasene or chenille embroidery. 

Design F, page 7. — Woodbine. For couching outline, silk or arrasene 
embroidery. It can be used on portiere, screen panel, table cover, etc. 

Design G, page 13. — A conventional design, suitable for working in couching 
outline, or silk embroidery, and can be used on portiere or table scarf. 

Design II, page 15. — Another conventional design; to be worked in Queen 
Anne darning and outlining, with silk and gold thread. Suitable for easel or table 
scarf. 

39 



^Ji@^yl 



DOMESTIC 'ART NEEDLEWORK 



3^ag^ 



Design" I, page 33.— Fern leaves. For use on portiere, worked in braid, 
couching outline, and braid or couching applique. 

Design J, page 34. — Conventional. To be worked in silk embroidery or 
outlining. For use on corner of table, or piano cover. 

Design K, page 37. — Conventional. For braiding, couching outline, and 
braiding or couching applique, and is suitable for use on a table, or stand cover. 

Designs D, E, F, I and K are embraced in Domestic Decorative Art Needle- 
work stamping outfit. 

Conclusion, 

IN concluding the Work of a General Guide, into a most interesting field of 
individual effort, we do so with a consciousness of the importance of the work, 
and the difficulty of satisfactorily accomplishing it. Oiir aims have been the lessen- 
ing of labor, time and expense requisite for the production of Art Needle-work of the 
highest order of merit, and the consequent extension of the scope of its production. 
Our efforts have been more in the nature of a guide to the use of a new means of 
execution, rather than directions, for formulating plans, or methods, to be executed. 
Tlie pradicaUlity of the new means of production has been fully demonstrated by 
the illustrations and descriptions of work executed by it. 

Its adaptation to the use of every kind of material, on every variety of texture, 
for the production of work in any sort of design, gives it the widest range of 
practical fitness. 

Prejudices may exist against Art Needle-work by the sewing machine, but this 
bias is no doubt largely the result of incompetent and unintelligent efforts, as shown 
in many displays of so-called Art Needle-work. Art-production, as well as art- 
appreciation, requires a knowledge of art-principles; and the degree of success in 
producing, as well as ability to appreciate, will be in proportion to the knowledge 
possessed. The only way in which the power of art-production, or art-appreciation, 
can be gained, is by the careful study of art-works of known excellence. No mere 
looking at works of beauty will make an artist. Proficiency is only the result of 
studious effort. The "^Domestic" Sewing Machme is an invaluable assistant in the 
production of every kind of Art Needle-work, but its efficiency, range of applica- 
tion, and artistic capabilities, will depend upon the knowledge and judgment 
guiding it. With this means for more rapid production, it is hoped there may be 
an increased interest in this ennobling and refining work of the home; and a more 
general revival of the production of Art Needle- work. 



4-0 




"ROM 



ESTIC" • EMBROIDERER. 




A, is the set screio for attaching Embroiderer to machine. B, is the fork of driving 
arm, which goes on the ueedle-nut. CC, are the embroidery finc/eni. D, is one of the 
spool spindles for carrying the embroidery material: on the opposite side, will be seen 
the other one. F, is the embroiderer foot. For ease of management, range of work, 
reliability and durability, this embroiderer is unexcelled. F*RICE, ^3.00. 



O O 



o 



o o 



o 



Q ^ 



KOR ALL KINDS OK 



ART • NEEDLE-WORK 




No. 4, Family. 



THE V 

"Domestic" S^win.Q^ Machine 

Is most perfectly adapted. Its work in this 
line is equal, in all respects, to the production 
of t7ie hand, and in some, superior. By meanji 
of this machine, its production is as easy as the 
ordinary lines of practical work. It requires 
no special adaptation, each and every machine 
being fitted therefor. It uses every kind of 
material on any kind of texture. The closest 
comparisons, and most critical tests are invited. 

"Domestic" Sewing Machine Co. 

Broadway AND Fourteenth St., 
NEW YORK. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 147 025 5 ♦ 




